Gorillas and Palm Trees
The Silverback Gorilla gazed indifferently at me through the undergrowth. He really ought to have been more welcoming: after all, we had trekked about an hour and a half up a really steep trail, deep in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to get here; and it was already very hot. The silverback's name is Rwansigazi, meaning 'strong young man', and it's easy to see why. Only his head was visible to me, but it was colossal. 'He weighs about 500 pounds' whispered our guide, Stephen Migyisha. Call it 36 stone, or 227 kilos if you like; I prefer to use a simpler description: he's big. Very big. But at that moment, he was looking at us with almost sad eyes: a thoughtful, and beautiful giant of the Uganda rainforest. I was on a Guerba Gorilla trip. My second, but not my last. They take in many of the scenic and wildlife highlights of Uganda, and very importantly, always include a guaranteed Gorilla permit. For me though, one of my all time highs took place the previous evening. It was the singing and dancing show performed for us in our campsite by the many pupils of Bwindis orphans school that Guerba contributes to. It was a stirring repayment - singing, clapping, drumming and dancing with astonishing energy and skill, and those who have heard African childrens voices raised in song, especially in harmony, and even more especially at sunset, will appreciate how no ones eyes were dry, and every heart was deeply moved by these wonderful young children. There are only 650 Mountain Gorillas left alive now, all in the forests of Central Africa. It is only by generous donations, and constant vigilance, that their knife edge existence continues. By taking visitors to 'meet' them, and contributing to organisations such as the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, we at Guerba are helping. Now, for our group of excited, hot, breathless trekkers, the moment we'd dreamed of had finally arrived. Around Rwansigazi was his family group; 19 other Gorillas, but although we could only see a few at a time, rustlings and swaying branches told us they were close at hand. Behind a bush, a mother lay with her 7 month old infant lying with its head in the crook of her elbow, gazing at each other. A small group of juveniles crept up to have a better look at us; then with a grunt, Rwansigazi rolled onto his knees and knuckles, and with surprising ease for such a giant, strolled off through the foliage. The group followed; we followed for another half an hour, then we had to leave - the forest closed round them and was silent again - except for the rustling and tree swaying that showed the Gorillas were still moving slowly through the jungle, as they've always done, and with our help, always will. Speak to anyone who's been to this awesome continent and you'll get the same response - Africa is MAGIC!!!
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